
Paleokastritsa
is the honey pot of the west coast, with hotels spreading so far up
into the surrounding area that some are a taxi ride from town. The
village itself is small, surrounded by hills and cliffs - an idyllic
setting which led British High Commissioner Sir Frederic Adam to popularize
Paleokastritsa in the nineteenth century.
It has been suggested as a possible site of the Homeric city of Scheria,
where Odysseus was washed ashore, discovered by Nausica and her handmaidens
and welcomed by her father King Alkinos, although this is a claim
shared by a number of other sites in the islands.
The thirteenth-century Paleokastritsa monastery overlooks the town,
and a circuitous 6km or so north is the Angelokastro castle, one of
the most impressive ruins on the island. |
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Paleokastritsa's castle,
the Angelokastro, There are shortcut paths through open
country from Paleokastritsa, but the main approach, and certainly
the only one by car, involves doubling back to the Lakones
turning and heading for the village of Makrades, a route with
some of the finest views in the region, and cafes such as the Bella
Vista to enjoy them from.
The route to the kastro leaves the smaller, dead-end hamlet of Krini.
Angelokastro is only approachable by path (the walk from the
car park takes about 30min), but the ruined castle has stunning, almost
circular views of the surrounding sea and land - presumably why its
Byzantine builders and later Venetian developers chose the
site. Indeed, the Angevins of Naples held out here for the
best part of a year when the Venetians took over the rest of the island
in 1386, and the fortress remained unbreached during
the brief but destructive Turkish invasions of 1537, 1571 and 1716.
On a clear day, it's possible to see Corfu Town some 25km away;
however, little remains of the fort except for parts of the main walls.
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On
the rocky bluff above the beaches, the beautiful, whitewashed Paleokastritsa's
Monastery (also known as the Theotokos Monastery) is
believed to have been established in the thirteenth century,
though the current buildings date from the eighteenth.
The small monastery church, set amidst an attractive complex of
courtyards, archways, monks' cells, oil presses and storerooms,
has a number of impressive icons, including depictions of St George
and the dragon and an atmospheric Last Judgement, while the
ceiling features a woodcarving of the Tree of Life.
There's also a museum, resplendent with further icons, most
notably a beautiful Dormition of the Virgin Mary, jewel-encrusted
silver-bound Bibles and other impedimenta of Greek Orthodox
ritual, as well as a curious "sea monster", with very large
vertebrae and tusks, said to have been killed by fishermen in the
last century. The real highlight, however, is the beautiful paved
gardens, which afford spectacular views over the coastline.
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